Livable City
Observations on Valencia from an urban exile.
“The pain in Spain is mainly in Trump’s brain.”—Paul Krugman
When the system works it is undeniable. When the system is broken it is also undeniable. I offer observations from a Spanish city that strives—culturally and politically—to make things work for the majority and not just those who can afford essential services. Not perfect, and I’m focusing on the positives here, but I give them an A for effort.
Beneath the the solid architectural bones of the city center lie Roman ruins. For centuries it has been a melting pot and today you can hear at least three languages on every block. The smell of orange blossoms overwhelms in spring on city streets. There's a near absence of franchise businesses and a ceramics studio, restaurant and dentist office on nearly every block. Parades are frequent as are protest marches and fireworks crackling in the night skies over dense neighborhoods. There are more musicians per capita than almost anywhere in Europe so the parades are pretty entertaining. Funerals and religious processions too. Sunday mornings at the modern art museum are a recent bonus.
Health care is affordable and widely available as are daily sanitation services. Bus rides cost 50 cents and are frequent and go everywhere. You can get from the beach to downtown in 20 minutes. Pedestrian streets throughout the city center allow you to appreciate the above mentioned architecture without fear of being run over. Bike lanes are taking over rendering many voters grumpy about lost parking places. One day the train tracks will run underground and there'll be a city park on top. If only dog owners took their responsibilities as seriously as street cleaners.
The generations look after each other. There's a youthful energy even among grandparents picking up children after school so parents can work and have a life. You don’t just grow up and move far away from your mother. People take work life balance seriously. It means respecting simple daily pleasure boundaries and an official vacation day twice per month often bookended on a weekend. Maybe the Mediterranean climate and access to the beach have something to do with this clever mindset?
Live music venues abound with people ready to party though I often wish they would just shut up and listen. There’s a massive flea market on Sunday and farmers markets open 6 days a week. You can’t believe how far your food dollars go. Late breakfast—almuerzo—is a religion, usually under $10 and includes a beverage (alcoholic if you like) and coffee (also with alcohol if you like) and dishes of peanuts and cured olives. The big meal is late lunch, followed by some down time and productive early evenings (like studio classes at Punt d’Art).
Fries with eyes and crisp foamy beer in icy 10-ounce glasses are always a winning combination. There's a cafe around the corner that sells fresh cut flowers and the one on the next block has legit crustless sandwiches. I love that women of all ages love their beer and are always out on the street enjoying each others’ company.
You're in the epicenter of a memorable and honorable defense against fascism. A regional language most nationals can’t understand and an immigrant can-do spirit, entrepreneurial opportunities for small businesses of all kinds. A nationally competitive sports team named after a flying mammal. Lottery tickets to support the blind. On most days you can sit in the sun near the steps of an old cathedral and listen to the bells ringing on the quarter hour while kids play fútbol in the square.
After a few months of this I inevitably return to the northern California woods with a severe case of Nature Deficit Disorder. But while I’m there I’m plugged into my routine, zig zagging within my own small footprint in a city striving to serve a culture clinging to a vanishing quality of life.
All for now.
If these reflections on Spain, cities, and the rhythms of everyday life resonate with you, I think you'll enjoy my Full Expression conversation with Sicilian-born blacksmith and slow food pioneer Angelo Garro, whose life and work celebrate the pleasures of exceptional ingredients, handmade craft, shared meals, and the belief that the everyday rituals can themselves become a work of art. Or check out my song, “Accidentally Valencia,” off the Gratitude album.
